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So when I bought my new Spesh enduro I thought I could manage with the Code R brakes that are stock on there. But after a month or so of riding and a couple bleeds on the code R's, I have realized that I can't deal with their inconsistency anymore, its getting dangerous out there with these brakes.
A friend of mine just purchased some Code RSC brakes and they feel amazing compared to mine. I noticed that the caliper of both brakes looks really similar if not identical. Which makes me wonder if I could just upgrade to RSC levers and basically have a complete RSC brake system. Is this true? Has anyone done this before? Would this work well? Or do I need to just get new brakes all together? I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts!
A friend of mine just purchased some Code RSC brakes and they feel amazing compared to mine. I noticed that the caliper of both brakes looks really similar if not identical. Which makes me wonder if I could just upgrade to RSC levers and basically have a complete RSC brake system. Is this true? Has anyone done this before? Would this work well? Or do I need to just get new brakes all together? I'd appreciate hearing your thoughts!
Are you sure that your levers are not affected by the recall/warranty situation. If they're pumping up when they get hot, you should be eligible for a free set of new levers.
Although there is an unorthodox trick you can try on any brakes that use the edge bleed port to help shorten the throw. Just be really careful not to get fluid on the pads.
-Remove your wheel, you can remove the pads or leave them in
-Push fluid from the caliper up until bubbles stop like a normal bleed, then down to the caliper, and back up to the lever.
-Close the caliper edge bleed port and leave the syringe snapped in place.
-Remove the lever syringe and cap the bleed port.
-Re open the caliper edge bleed port and gently press the plunger, then close the port while keeping pressure on the syringe plunger.
-Gently pull back on the plunger when removing it from the edge bleed port to prevent any fluid from spewing out as t will still be under pressure.
-Check lever feel by reinserting the wheel and rotor or with a pad spacer snapped into place and you can adjust the feel by adding or removing pressure from the line.
This is definitely not the procedure sram recommends but I have had good luck with it helping my codes and guides bite quicker with much shorter lever throw. Worth a shot before buying any additional parts.
If you are doing it on RSC levers just be sure the lever throw is at its longest setting for the best results
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